Savita Kanswal India’s Record-Breaking Mountaineer
Savita Kanswal India's Record-Breaking Mountaineer
Savita Kanswal created history in 2022 by becoming the first Indian woman to scale Mount Everest and neighboring peak Mount Makalu within a record time of just 16 days. Her trailblazing feats as a mountaineer were tragically cut short at the age of 25 after she lost her life in an avalanche in Uttarkashi in October 2022.
Savita Kanswal : Overcoming Adversity in Childhood
Savita’s tryst with mountaineering began at an early age in her village of Lonthru in Uttarkashi district, Uttarakhand. As a child, Savita lost her father, who was in the Indian Army. Being the eldest of three sisters, she took on the responsibility of supporting her family along with her mother, who worked as a tailor.
Despite financial hardships, Savita persevered in pursuing her academic goals. She completed her schooling from Government Inter College, Chinyalisaur. Savita was always fond of sports and outdoor activities, which laid the foundation of her future as a mountaineer.
Developing a Passion for Mountaineering
After finishing school, Savita continued to live in her village and began working as an instructor at the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering (NIM) in Uttarkashi. This proved to be a turning point in her life.
At NIM, Savita found her true calling in mountaineering. She trained hard to develop the strength, endurance and technical skills required to take on major Himalayan expeditions. Savita also completed several advanced courses at NIM and obtained the prestigious Instructor’s course diploma.
Savita quickly became known for her unwavering determination and high altitude resilience. She served as an instructor for over 5 years at NIM, mentoring several women trainees and helping them overcome their fears and weaknesses.
Conquering Mount Everest
The first major milestone in Savita’s mountaineering career came in 2021 when she was selected for the prestigious All India Women Empowerment Nari Shakti Everest Expedition. This was organized by the Government of India to promote women in adventure sports.
Braving extreme weather and dangerous terrain, Savita successfully reached the peak of Mount Everest (29,032 ft) on May 12, 2021. She became the first woman from Uttarkashi district to achieve this remarkable feat. Her confidence grew as she gained more experience at high altitudes.
Rapid Ascent of Mount Makalu
Shortly after returning from Everest, Savita began setting her eyes on an even loftier goal. She wanted to climb Mount Makalu (27,825 ft) – the world’s fifth highest peak nestled on the China-Nepal border.
In April 2022, Savita joined an 8-member team selected for the Mt Makalu expedition under the leadership of legendary Indian mountaineer Love Raj Singh Dharmshaktu. Unfazed by the technical challenges of Makalu, Savita strategically acclimatized to the altitude and showcased excellent endurance.
On May 15, 2022, she proudly stood on the summit of Mt. Makalu. Having summited Mount Everest just 16 days earlier, she broke the national record for making successive ascents of the world’s highest and fifth highest peaks within the shortest span.
Lives Lost in the Tragedy
The deadly avalanche that struck Savita Kanswal’s team on October 4, 2022 sadly claimed the lives of 6 people. They include:
| Name | Age | Role/Organization |
|---|---|---|
| Savita Kanswal | 25 years | Instructor at NIM Uttarkashi |
| Anshul Katiyar | 18 years | Trainee at NIM Uttarkashi |
| Naik Deep Singh | 35 years | Indo-Tibetan Border Police |
| Head Constable Gopal Singh | 53 years | Indo-Tibetan Border Police |
| Constable Rambir Singh | 42 years | Indo-Tibetan Border Police |
| Constable Jai Kishon Singh | 32 years | Indo-Tibetan Border Police |
All six individuals lost their lives during the avalanche or succumbed to their injuries soon after. They were part of the 12-member team navigating Mount Draupadi Ka Danda II when the avalanche struck at 17,000 ft altitude.
While Savita and Anshul were mountaineering instructors and trainees from NIM Uttarkashi respectively, the other four troopers were from the ITBP detachment deployed for security of the team. The two survivors included NIM instructor Naib Subedar N S Dahiya and a trainee.
The tragic loss of so many dedicated mountaineers and security personnel in the accident underscored the serious risks faced by those who train or work in the perilous Himalayan heights. The grief left behind in their families, institutes and communities continues to linger.
Avalanche Survivors
As per reports, two members of the 12-member team navigating Mount Draupadi Ka Danda II managed to survive the massive avalanche that struck at 17,000 ft altitude on October 4, 2022.
The survivors are:
- Naib Subedar N S Dahiya: A mountaineering instructor from the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering (NIM) Uttarkashi. He was among the 4 NIM instructors guiding the navigation training expedition. Naib Subedar Dahiya escaped the avalanche with minor injuries.
- Chetan Pandey: A trainee member of the NIM Uttarkashi team undergoing navigation training under the institute’s instructors. Pandey reportedly suffered a broken leg and hand injuries but managed to be rescued alive from the avalanche along with Dahiya.
All other 10 team members including accomplished NIM instructor Savita Kanswal and another trainee Anshul Katiyar were sadly caught in the full fury of the avalanche. While Savita, Anshul and 4 ITBP personnel died, some other trainees sustained major injuries.
The survival of Naib Subedar Dahiya and Chetan Pandey despite the intensity of the snow slide was described as nearly miraculous. They were able to alert other climbers and the authorities about the accident. Their first-hand account of the event provided critical insights into what transpired on the mountain.
Dahiya’s experience as an instructor enabled him to strategically position himself away from the avalanche’s path by clinging to the mountain face using his ice axe. Pandey too managed to anchor himself, avoiding being swept away. Their resilience and mountain expertise undoubtedly saved their lives.
The two survivors’ heroic tale of grit in the face of tragedy is inspiring. Their survival was vital in initiating speedy search and rescue efforts on the treacherous mountain terrain. However, the mental trauma they underwent cannot be discounted. Counselling and emotional support will be critical in their recovery.
National Recognition
Savita’s extraordinary achievements earned her well-deserved national recognition in 2022. She received the prestigious Tenzing Norgay Adventure Award in the ‘Land adventure’ category from President Droupadi Murmu in a ceremony held in New Delhi. This highest recognition for adventure sports in India commemorated Savita’s inspirational contributions as the first Indian woman mountaineer to climb Everest and Makalu in 16 days.
Savita also brought pride to Uttarkashi district and Uttarakhand state through her historic mountaineering feats. Government officials and local residents in her village joyfully welcomed Savita on her return from Makalu. They saw her as a symbol of the empowerment of women and girls in mountainous regions.
Sudden Demise in Avalanche
Tragically, Savita’s promising mountaineering career met a sudden tragic end shortly after her success on Makalu. On October 4, 2022, she was instructor-in-charge for a team of trainees undergoing high-altitude navigation training near Mount Draupadi Ka Danda II (25,700 ft) in Uttarkashi.
While descending from the peak, the team was hit by a massive avalanche at around 9 AM at an altitude of 17,000 ft. Savita and another mountaineering trainee-18 year old Anshul Katiyar perished in the avalanche along with 4 other troopers of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police. Several others sustained injuries.
Despite best rescue efforts, Savita could not be revived. The untimely demise of the adventurous 25-year old stunned the entire nation. Uttarakhand Chief Minister Pushkar Singh Dhami expressed condolences on the ‘tragic end of a promising mountaineering career’. Her funeral was held on October 6 with state honors.
Savita Kanswal : Legacy and Inspiration for Women Mountaineers
Savita Kanswal, Though her bright life was cut short, Savita leaves behind a lasting legacy as a high-altitude pioneer. Through her record-breaking summits of Everest and Makalu, she broke prevalent stereotypes and proved that even girls from remote mountain villages can achieve the heights of mountaineering glory.
Savita’s life serves as an inspiration to women across India to come forward and take up adventure sports. Her fortitude and never-give-up spirit in overcoming childhood hardships and male-dominated challenges are exemplary. Savita paved the way for future women mountaineers to aim for the highest peaks.
The deadly avalanche is a reminder of the extreme risks faced by mountaineers who brave unpredictable Himalayan terrain and weather for the love of climbing. As Indian President Murmu stated, Savita’s life will continue motivating generations of women adventure enthusiasts to push their boundaries. The nation will remember her as a history-making mountaineer who conquered Everest and Makalu with courage and a smile.
Savita Kanswal :
Q: What safety gears are essential for mountaineers?
A: Must-have gears are climbing helmet, ice axe, ropes, carabiners, crampons, boots, layers of warm clothing, sunglasses, headlamp, and avalanche transceiver.
Q: What is altitude sickness and how can it be prevented?
A: Altitude sickness is caused by reduced oxygen at high altitudes. It can be prevented by proper acclimatization, hydration, avoiding exertion, and medications.
Q: How can mountaineers prepare for unpredictable weather?
A: Regularly check mountain weather forecasts, plan for delays/early descents, carry adequate food/fuel, dress appropriately, and be ready to change plans.
Q: What is the standard protocol if someone gets injured during an expedition?
A: Administer first aid, alert team members, contact emergency services, arrange transport of victim, and if severe, activate search and rescue.
